About my breeding & planned litters

I only breed one, or  rarely two litters per year. It takes a lot of time, as I have my pups indoors and try to spend as much time as possibly with them :) I take them in & out several times per day. They are free to “run around” in the kitchen from 21 days of age and also visit other rooms in the house, for new experiences. They have a lot of things to “play” with, tugs for tugwar, balls & noicy metal-things. They have big yards outside, neighbours to horses and sheep. Well fenced!

I visit friends with them
from appr. 7 weeks of age, so they can experience to go by car and also see other places, both indoors and outdoors.
I think it is important to let them be socialised and used to cooperation with people, so we love when our friends come and visit us and play with mum & pups!

I want to sell them to people that do something with them, not only keep them as pets. Kelpies need to work!

In Sweden we can only breed from hipscored and HD-free dogs, grade A or B. That might be maximum 4:4 - 6:6 in Australia., depending on where the points are placed.
Of kelpies born 2000-2005 in Sweden there are 433 scored with good hips, grade A & B and 39 with HD, mostly C.
All HD & ED-results are official, at the Swedish kennelclub's database. There are also all results from competitions & shows for all registred dogs.
You can see it here: http://kennet.skk.se/hunddata
It is in Swedish, but you can try your way ahead :) 

We also have to do a mentaldescription before breeding; MH. That's not approved or not, just known mental status, but very good to look at for the sake of breeding mentally stabile, open dogs with workingability. Looking at the result for a whole litter tells a lot.
I think that it is important to know as much as possible about the siblings to the parents, as they also affect on the litters, both about HD, health, mentality & conformation.
The best breeding is breeding with good dogs from good litters!

My goal with breeding are healthy dogs with a lot of “power” for work, as tracking, searching & obedience. I have sheep and try to do a bit herding also, the dogs love it, but in that I'm a beginner in herding and I put most of the time for training obedience, tracking, searching and articlesearch. At least I try to do the herding instinct test with my own dogs and also try to arrange tests for my puppybuyers..

I prefer to use good mentaltested
- also the big mentaltest for KORAD - dogs that also has proved that they can work, more or less. All owners does not want to go to competitions and I don´t mind, as long as the dogs will get their needs of activity in using brain and noose and are loved members of the family. But, if I will breed from a dog I prefer to know the workingability and it is a difference between training “at home” and compete a whole day in another place.
For the title KORAD, the dog has to be approved in a big mentaltest + HD OK + "good enough" looking and testicles OK.

I want to be keeping our "old" lines with some "new blood" now and then, always keeping the inbreedingcoefficients under 2.5% and preferably no individual more than 0.8%, depending on who and the results from that individuals progeny. 
I think about it more and more, as in litters with high inbreeding the risk is much higher for illness...

The inbreedingcoefficients are counted out of 5 generations. If I count from 4 there will be lower and in some of the litters 0%.

As some affected hearts - Mitral Valve Degeneration ( MVD ) - in younger dogs show up now and then, I want to keep it under some control, that I feel comfy with myself.
Also middle age dogs with murmur - in the twilightzone of to early for a so called "old dogs heart" - occour. Not new, they have occoured earlier too.
This is a slow progressive disease. Dogs live many years with this from the time the murmur is discovered.
On the other hand, there are also many healthy old dogs.

No reason for panic! I just want to look after it ;-)

The first small changes can be seen with U/S a couple of years before the leak and murmur start. Therefor wanting a little longer before breeding debute.

Auscultation - listening - of as many dogs as possible in my breeding and try to - as far as possibly - use a bit "older" and healthy dogs in breeding, after checking with U/S.
It takes patience - not really me... - and time. But it pays in the end - hopefully!



These are my thoughts about matings that I'm interested in and not all of the owners of the males are spoken to. Plans can change as time goes...



KORAD LPI Vickulas Wissla SPHI

HD A, ED 0-0, patella OK, eyes clear ( 2016 ) heart clear U/S ( 2016 )
So far she has a nice MH done, approved big mentaltest, 1:st price in obedience class 2, up for level 3 tracking and Excellent from show. 

High drive in tracking and obedience. All siblings scored, 7 A's and 1 B in the litter. ( A & B are free ) ED 0.



HD A, ED 0, patella 0, eyes clear ( 2016 ) heart clear U/S ( 2016 )

Up for level 3 tracking, approved level 2 searching, 1:st price in elite class obedience.

A very nice boy in every situation, comfy and cool. Has a high drive in work and a great playing and "tugwar-spirit". Loves his playing/tug rewards. All siblings HD/ED free.




KORAD A-Yuluma

HD grade A, ED 0, eyes clear ( 2016 ) heart auscultation OK ( 2016 ). Will do U/S before breeding.

Shown with CQ and BOS. Nice MH-test and even more nice big mentaltest. Up for level 2 tracking and 1:st price in obedience class 3.

She is a "hot" girl :) Absolutely in my taste! Excellent drive in both tracking and obedience. Has a great drive for playing and "tugwar-spirit".
All siblings scored, 6 A's and 1 B - all ED 0.


A few are on my mind...

Have a look at the Swedish littersplans to see them - HERE


Hopefully I will be able to use both Vickulas Yazz & Yatzi.
But they are very young yet. Shall be scored and testet for this and that first ;-)


Time will tell!